La Table des Étoiles’ Culinary Showcase
By Janis Turk
Last month, San Antonio’s culinary landscape reached dazzling new heights as Brasserie Mon Chou Chou hosted the second installment of its exclusive tasting series, “La Table des Étoiles.” Headlined by acclaimed Chicago chef Noah Sandoval of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Oriole, the intimate dinner drew gourmands and gastronomes alike for a night of exquisite flavor, thoughtful craftsmanship, and culinary harmony.
Set in the heart of the historic Pearl district, Mon Chou Chou is already a beloved French brasserie mainstay in the city’s dining scene. But on this night, the restaurant transcended its own high standards. With just a few dozen seats available, the one-night-only experience sold out quickly, offering an elite few the opportunity to indulge in a collaborative menu crafted by two exceptional chefs — Sandoval and the brasserie’s own executive chef, Laurent Réa.
“This evening was about respect—for the ingredients, the traditions, and for each other’s craft.” — Chef Laurent Réa
The evening wasn’t just dinner; it was a culinary performance. Each dish arrived as if it were a work of art, offering a glimpse into the chefs’ shared respect for French tradition and their mutual desire to push international boundaries.
Sandoval, known for his avant-garde elegance and precision at Oriole, brought signature flair to the table. His menu opened with a bold Carabineros prawn, paired unexpectedly — and brilliantly — with shishito sorbet and Thai herbs. It was a high-wire act of spice and chill, met with murmurs of delight around the softly lit room. His second course, an ethereal combination of foie gras and scallop dressed in blueberries, oxalis and smoked black pepper, was a study in balance—rich, restrained, and visually stunning.
But it was not a one-man show. If Sandoval dazzled, Réa grounded the meal in soulful, French-rooted sophistication that earned equal admiration. A ramp mousse with escargot caviar served as a vivid and velvety opening statement. Later, his Peekytoe crab roll with English cucumber and American caviar offered a bright, briny nod to spring. And his roasted squab — lacquered to perfection and nestled beside fiddleheads and celery root — delivered deep, satisfying layers of texture and taste that lingered long after the final bite.
Pairings That Sing
The evening’s optional wine pairing elevated the dining experience even further, highlighting the nuance and complexity of each course. Curated by Brasserie Mon Chou Chou’s sommelier team, the selections ranged from crisp, mineral-forward whites to structured reds with elegant tannins.
A delicate M. Haslinger & Fils Brut Champagne danced gracefully alongside the first course of Ramp Mouse with Escargot Cavier. For Sandoval’s daring seafood compositions, aromatic whites from the Loire Valley and Alsace provided balance and intrigue. The final pour — a late-harvest riesling with bright citrus and floral notes — was a fitting partner to the tropical brightness of Réa and Mon Chou Chou pastry chef Roxana De Leon’s playful Cadeau de Pâtisserie, a coconut sablée topped with mango curd, fruit pearls, yuzu oil and black sesame that closed the evening with a sweet, unexpected twist.
A Celebration of Craft
Indeed, La Table des Étoiles was a celebration not only of Michelin-grade technique but also of cultural storytelling. For Réa, a Strasbourg native who has helmed kitchens across Europe and the United States, including the iconic O’Keefe Café in Santa Fe, the event was a moment to showcase his refined French palate to an audience ready to embrace it. The experience also held profound significance for Sandoval, who, on his inaugural visit to Texas, never imagined he would develop such a deep affection for the city and the remarkable teams at Mon Chou Chou and Southerleigh Fine Foods. “I cannot wait to return. I arrived with no expectations, and both this city and this experience have far surpassed anything I could have envisioned,” Sandoval reflected.
La Table des Étoiles signals a new chapter for Brasserie Mon Chou Chou — one where local talent and international acclaim converge under one roof and shine like stars.
About the Chefs
Chef Noah Sandoval
The visionary behind Chicago’s Oriole, Chef Sandoval has earned two Michelin stars and accolades from Food & Wine, the Chicago Tribune, and the James Beard Foundation. Known for his precision, balance and modernist touch, Sandoval continues to push the boundaries of fine dining in America.
Chef Laurent Réa
Executive chef of Brasserie Mon Chou Chou, Réa brings deep roots in classical French cuisine with a global sensibility honed in kitchens from Strasbourg to Santa Fe. With a passion for elegant simplicity and seasonal ingredients, Réa is a rising star in the Texas culinary scene.
