Barraca at Blue Star

Barraca at Blue Star

Let’s talk tortillas. No, not that kind; the tortilla española, a ubiquitous presence in the country’s many tapas bars, is Spain’s answer to France’s quiche and Italy’s frittata. Except that it’s at once simpler and more profound than both. In its Platonic form, the...

Barbaro

Barbaro

The pizzas have personality The Spanish term barbaro — accent on the first “a,” can mean exactly what it sounds like: awful, terrible and, yes, barbaric. And, more popularly, it can mean the opposite: great, wonderful …We don’t know what Charlie Biedenharn and Chad...

The Pearl: A Primer Restaurant Gems Abound

The Pearl: A Primer Restaurant Gems Abound

San Antonio has never been the kind of city with concentrations of ethnic restaurants in defined locations. We have no Little Italy, no Chinatown, no Baby Bavaria. Sure, there may be more Mexican restaurants on the West Side than elsewhere, but enchiladas aren’t...

Talking Thai

Talking Thai

Thai was not the first cuisine to begin elbowing out Chinese as our only Asian option; in San Antonio, at least, that distinction belongs to the Vietnamese — with a sideways glance at Japan. (Think returning servicemen — and often their brides.) Korean and Indian...

Three Orders of Shellfish

Three Orders of Shellfish

Americans are looking out to sea for lighter fare, and shellfish win hands down as the most popular creatures of the sea. The shellfish family is a very large family indeed. It’s divided into three main classifications: crustaceans, mollusks, and cephalopods. Each has...

Itallian Accents

Itallian Accents

Ask any Italian mama, “What’s the single most important item on your pantry shelf?” Invariably, her answer will be pasta. Whether it plays a minor role in a major dinner, or serves as a quick dish to quell ravenous appetites, a bowl of pasta is always gladly received....

MexSA

MexSA

In the world of widely respected cuisines, Tex-Mex doesn't get any — respect, that is. Historically, some of the problem has been simple exposure: The food didn't travel well beyond its natural habitat, and when it did end up elsewhere, it was tarred by the Taco-Bell...

Crumpets

Crumpets

It’s not easy being an icon. Either you’re relegated to senior-citizen status and effectively ignored, or you’re constantly called into question by youngsters determined to depose you from the throne. Chef François Maeder could probably care less either way. As I...

Golden Wok

Golden Wok

The dim sum tradition, ancient in China, is almost absent in San Antonio. True, potstickers seem to have propagated throughout Asian restaurants of every stripe, and spring rolls are everywhere you turn. But the full, clangorous service with steaming carts bustling...

Bahia Azul: Mexican coastal cuisine is catching on

Bahia Azul: Mexican coastal cuisine is catching on

In the tsunami of new restaurants in San Antonio by and for the wave of moneyed Mexicans fleeing the country's drug wars, there has been a notable number of coastal places. They don't all succeed here;Cabo, for example, went out with the tide, apparently never to...

Feast Flourishes in Southtown

Feast Flourishes in Southtown

One of the food blogs I regularly read attached a video to a recent article emphasizing the difficulty of obtaining puff pastry for a tart the authors desired to make. It was part of a Sesame Street series called “One of These Things is Not Like the Others,” and it...

Perry’s Steakhouse Comes to Town

Perry’s Steakhouse Comes to Town

If you don’t mind clambering up to a seat at a high banquette (somehow designers never seem to get these things proportionally correct; it’s really annoying not to have one’s feet touch terra firma — or something firma — when seated) and have a tolerance for an...

Stonewerks: New location, enticing menu attract crowds

Stonewerks: New location, enticing menu attract crowds

One might not think that a move of, oh, a half a mile or so might make much of a difference to an already established restaurant. But a bigger space and a degree of enhanced visibility seem to have been just what Stone Werks needed; on two occasions the restaurant’s...

Lüke Brings New Orleans to the River Walk

Lüke Brings New Orleans to the River Walk

To denizens of the Crescent City, chef John Besh must be the culinary equivalent of one of Japan’s National Treasures. Not only does he have several successful restaurants, but he has just come out with a second cookbook and is a frequent apostle of New Orleans (and...

Fleming’s Steakhouse

Fleming’s Steakhouse

There’s something Mad Men retro about most steakhouses —whether they serenade you with Sinatra or simply shake a stylish martini. Or both. But as these are not boom times, we suggest a stratagem for struttin’ your own style at a reduced rate: Hit happy hour. This is...

Roaring Fork:  Beef and pork entrees win applause

Roaring Fork: Beef and pork entrees win applause

Opt for the bar, that’s our suggestion. The Roaring Fork main dining room seems better suited to groups and families, but the bar provides some good couples-scaled seating. Besides, if your waitress’s watch is running a tad late (wink, wink), you may just make it in...

Sandbar Fish House & Market

Sandbar Fish House & Market

previous downtown location, Sandbar was much like a pilot fish in its symbiotic relationship to a shark — in this case, the larger and more laureled Le Rêve. Though it may have been a destination for many, it was equally likely to have been a fallback for those not...

Silo 1604 Doesn’t Disappoint

Silo 1604 Doesn’t Disappoint

dining room at Silo 1604 is one of the city’s most effective restaurant spaces, especially at dusk, when it’s possible to experience the change from light and transparent to inner-focused and dramatic. For all of its sleek surfaces, the place is also acoustically...

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